22023 Michigan Ave., Dearborn; 313-277-2426;
Entrées with tomato sauce are rare at Ciao, even on the pizzas; mushrooms are more frequent. If you get tomatoes, they're either sun-dried or combined with something high in butterfat, as in "Gorgonzola tomato cream." Instead, the long and luscious list is made up of Italian fare that often feels more sophisticated than the red stuff, such as calamari with vino bianco, mushroom soup with Asiago, linguine with vodka and salmon. And then there's surf-and-turf. Chef Hassan Aoun eschews Italian wines too, preferring California's.