16351 Ford Rd., suite 100, Dearborn; 313-253-1010; See olliescuisine.com for other locations

Despite the abundance of Middle Eastern restaurants in Detroit, even few of those who love it understand what sets Lebanese cuisine apart: an emphasis on deft preparation, fresh ingredients, and, yes, a reluctance to overspice things. That means hummus without excess tahini or a gummy consistency, baba that's silky and almost campfire smoky, and tabbouleh with just a few tablespoons of burghul. Ollie's has all that down, and even a few old-school Lebanese treats, such as batata harra and yakhanat arnabit.