376 N. Main St., Royal Oak; 248-607-3127; stradaroyaloak.com

What does it take to be the best in glitzy Oakland County? This year's formula seems to be a sophisticated small plates spin on Italian fare, a no-expense-spared décor that includes an original 1920s chandelier from the Book Cadillac Hotel, an Italian wine selection, and a balanced seasonal cocktail menu and special menus for apéritifs and digestifs.