Best New Italian in the Suburbs

Trattoria Pizzeria da Luigi; 415 S. Washington, Royal Oak; 248-542-4444;

Staff Pick

Luigi Cutraro calls it “Italian with a Sicilian accent” and says his menu is “built upon thousands of years of eating.” Those years of expertise are distilled into bright dishes served in a cozy and convivial atmosphere with no pretensions except to flatter the mouth. There’s pizza, yes, but so much more: a salad of orange slices, red onion and goat cheese; baby octopus with chick peas and arugula; lobster ravioli; pork cutlets with prosciutto and fontina; tortellini with Gorgonzola and cream; chocolate semifreddo; Sicilian vino rosso to love. Welcome back, Luigi, from your long detour into Spanish cuisine; your Sangria was good but this is home.

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