All the bagel sandwiches at the Institute are inspired combinations, but the $11 “Lew Silver” contains more lox than it seems possible, or at least economically feasible, to pile in one place. A 4-ounce mountain of thick slices, brought in from Acme Smoked Fish in Brooklyn, thin-sliced tomato, cream cheese, red onion, capers — whoever discovered this time-honored combo of bite, creaminess and marine saltiness left a gift for humankind. You can be more abstemious and order the 2-ounce Lew Silver for $9, but that would defeat the purpose of this category. The same fish is used by the eager bagelistas to make lox cream cheese in-house.
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