It starts somewhat innocuously: “Lamb Sandwich,” reads the menu. “Garlic yogurt, sumac, cucumber, mint salad, grilled zataar bread, lime-chili fries.” It sounds kind of complicated, a little foreign, and very exciting. The plate arrives, and the first bite is overwhelming. The lamb is sliced thinly, and seasoned perfectly. Those accompanying items contained in the soft, rustic bread all provide bright contrast against the rich, roasted lamb flavor. Then, as the last fries disappear from the plate, realization settles in: That was the best gyro you’ve ever eaten, and you didn’t even know it was one … until it was all gone. It’s a beautiful microcosm of the food at Bistro Joe’s overall: Everything is simply done right, all the way. There’s nothing to add to make it any better, and to remove anything would destroy the perfection: Just the way Chef Jacques planned.
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