Tiny Ferndale restaurant Torino has come a long way from its first couple of years as a café serving espresso and a limited panini menu. Starting last July, the restaurant began offering a chef’s tasting menu that rotates weekly; it has since been cited by several of the area’s top food critics as the very best cuisine the metro area, if not the entire state, has to offer. Torino’s young chef Garrett Lipar trained at several restaurants, including Chicago’s Alinea, before starting at Torino; this is his first time running his own kitchen. Like Alinea, Torino’s food can be classified as “modernist,” employing foams, ices, purées, gels and the like. But to reduce this magnificent food to a single label would be to do it an injustice; best to go see for yourself what all the fuss is about.