201 S. Leroy St., Fenton; 810-936-0442; fentonfirehall.com
Say what you will, but this is pretty brilliant: In a restaurant where a featured drink is the “State Fair Lemonade” — served in a closed mason jar (“When you’re ready,” they say, “shake it up and drink it”) that tastes exactly like what you expect, but with a subtle alcoholic kick — you can get away with serving some unique items, like, say … a walking taco (aka “Frito pie”). If you’re befuddled, you must not have ever experienced the questionable delight of lunch-room chili in a bag of Fritos with cheese, iceberg, and taco salsa; for the less confused, this is not quite what you remember. Your childhood has been rehabilitated. House chili — your choice of red, green, or white — with white cheddar, pickled chili, shaved romaine (thank the heavens) lettuce, scallions, and sour cream. Just try it, you’ll understand.