Despite its simple furnishings, casual dress policy and reasonable pricing, J. Baldwin’s fare is decidedly uptown. Entrées include six chicken options (ranging from Southern-fried to a low-carb almond-crusted variant in tomato-basil over zucchini linguini), several steaks (with Kobe flatiron an attractive option), a good number of sea-food items and several daily catches, jambalaya and, for vegetarians, portabella ravioli and mushrooms in a tomato-basil sauce. There's also a full array of imaginatively dressed, round and deep-dish designer pizzas that can be eaten in house or ordered in a half-baked state to cook at home. Most of the non-reserve wines are fairly marked up from $28 to $34, and though only Bud Light and Bass Ale are on tap, Baldwin compensates with an extensive list of quaffs by the bottle. Baldwin has every reason to be proud of his own restaurant. He has made it possible for ordinary folk in jeans and shorts to sample dishes he created when he labored in an entirely different gastronomical milieu.