Northern Lakes Seafood Company

This sprawling establishment, which can seat 300 in its main dining areas, tavern and cozy private dining room, does not seem as large as it is because of the artful manner in which the space is broken up, and also because of the generous spacing between the New England-style bare wooden tables. Every night, the establishment offers about 10 fresh catches of the day that may range from Lake Superior whitefish ($17) or Idaho rainbow trout ($18) to Key West black grouper ($30). In addition, there are eight other seafood “house specialties” and seven landlubberly platters, with only one, a morel-mushroom risotto, appealing to vegetarians. Like all of the restaurants in the Prentice stable, Northern Lakes has a wonderful wine list full of relatively obscure and often reasonable bottles. The professional service is commendable, the surroundings are charming and the fresh seafood — ranging from the unadorned to the wildly fussy — make it a prime destination for fish in our metroplex.