Reopened after months of remodeling, the circa-1882 brick and stone house in the historic Brush Park district has gone upscale. The house looks beautiful in its plum, burgundy and polished wood decor. Only vestiges of its former soul food menu remain, replaced by rack of lamb with grilled vegetables, veal tenderloin and shrimp and chicken etouffee. The price structure is noticeably higher, with dinner entrees up to $27.95. Also new is the piano bar in the cocktail lounge.