"Voyager breaks the mold of your classic oyster bar (the usual shucked suspects; a musty imperial vibe) and looks good doing it. Restaurateur Eli Boyer built the restaurant on his own terms, in a way that felt right for his hometown. A color-blocked, airy interior makes it the ultimate hangout, and Tootla and Jackson's menu make it a compelling destination.
"The oyster selection ranges from Barnstable, Massachusetts to Discovery Bay, Washington, but the best bites at Voyager reach further afield. Peel- and- eat shrimp are dusted with Old Bay and served with umami-packed Alabama comeback sauce. A Caesar salad arrives with creamy, crunchy fried sweetbreads.
"Like Detroit, Voyager has found its way by adapting to shifting tides. It's a major score for a city on its way up, but any town in America would be lucky to have it."
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