Kate Williams is obsessed with the idea of tartare. It’s scrappy; it’s resourceful; it’s a whole lot more than the sum of its parts. And in exactly these ways, the dish also sums up the restaurant she’s built. Lady of the House is a no-waste kitchen, a place where produce “seconds” cultivated in urban farms arrive by the crate. It’s a place where citrus peels find new life in flavored syrups and apple cores cook down into sweet butter, where fish bones are scraped of every last morsel of meat and prime rib trim becomes, yes, tartare—paired with a brilliant surf-and-turf swoosh of smoked oyster aioli. You don’t need to know that Williams does most of her own butchery in-house to enjoy her perfect rosy slices of Parisian ham paired with sweet-spicy Dijon butter and chunky fermented honey, just as you don’t need to know that her mom hung the pineapple wallpaper and that some of the dainty china belonged to her grandmother to be blown away by the restaurant’s charm.
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